I, for the life of me, cannot understand how the water in New York City is so insanely underutilized. Between transportation, and restaurants and bars, great opportunity sits unappreciated on the banks of both the East and Hudson Rivers. With the exception of a handful of boat parties and one time I was drunk and put my foot in the East River to see if it would glow in the dark later that night, I’ve never actually been on the water for any other reason, and my guess is you haven’t either. But that’s got nothing to do with going out in Paris, so I digress!
Antipode, like Blue & Gold in the East Village, holds a special place in my heart despite being pretty disgusting. The only difference is that while I would rather sell my soul to the devil than eat even a single peanut at Blue & Gold, the food here at Antipode is actually quite good, especially for the price.
This was the first place I went here in Paris. While Toto was at work, his friend from Toulouse arrived. I was instructed to let this stranger into my new home, and then to enjoy a glass of wine or two until the three of us could all meet up. So we went over to Antipode, and luckily said friend a. didn’t murder me, and b. spoke English. He’s since moved here to Paris and can be seen in the photo below, which was taken just the other day. So needless to say, this place has stuck with us, even though we’ve since moved across town to the other side of the city (we used to live just next to it).
Antipode is essentially a large old boat that sits on the Canal Saint-Martin on the east side of Paris, and which may or may not be slowly sinking. Aside from charcuterie, cheese and alcohol at very low prices, there is also cheap raclette, tapas and rilettes, and a couple other small plates and snacks. You can go here and sit in a smoking side or a non-smoking side, under some Christmas lights, or out on the back deck which is open. This is a dive-boat, if that is even a legitimate term, but it’s always fun and the food is quite decent and it’s a fun thing to do if you want to go out for cheap here in Paris.
Cocktails start at 5€, wine by the glass at 2€50 and bottles at 15€, and pints at 4€50. Tapas start at 4€, cheese and charcuterie platters are about 10€, though they are very large and you can also order smaller portions for much less, and they have raclette (which is that crazy setup of charcuterie, potatoes and melted cheese that you see above) for ten bucks a person or 18 bucks for two, though I think one is enough for two people to split.
If (due to a combination of uncontrollable life circumstances and highly questionable decisions) you, like myself, can only deem the smallest of expenses as an okay thing to do, or if you just want a fun, cheap night out in Paris when the weather is nice, then I am sure you’ll like it here. Oh yeah, order at the bar, and they bring the food to the table. Also, fairly often there is live music, but I mainly go for the cheap food and drink. Also, don’t wear sandals.
Where: 55 Quai de la Seine (on the Canal Saint Martin, western side), 75019 Paris | Metro: Jaures 2, 5, 7 bis. Laumiere 5. Riquet 7. | Open: Daily 12pm – 2am (kitchen closes at 11pm, and for siesta between lunch and dinner). | How Much: Wine glasses start at 2, bottles at 15, beers at 4.50. Food between 4 for snacks and 10 for large platters and raclette. Credit cards okay, though there is a minimum.